They all sound like they should be fairly easy to fix. I used to layout my pcbs in imperial 6mil (previously 8mil) only. If you do this, then use 0.13mm as minimum track/space which is just over 5mils. I use inches to define the pcb outline and pin headers, and metric elsewhere. Saves moving the mouse up to the right panel and select the track again. KiCad tip - use "X" to start track placement after you've "Esc"aped the previous routing and had to abort it. Or talk to Peter about a cutdown version of his UB3 for onboard USB.īTW I do see at present you're at 1.1" pitch! Not much space is there? I really admire you giving it a go! When you get there, do think about using the optional transistor reset and the standard footprint for either USB-TTL CP2102 6-pin full-size USB or the micro USB version (yes, they change the footprint!) which are only ~$1.50 shipped on fleabay. I had looked at much smaller ones but in the end 3225 is easy. Use the standard 20MHz and 3225 package which is cheap and readily obtainable. Your market will never need the extra precision.
I still need to add 1.8V and 3.3V regulators, flash, bypass caps and a 4-pin Prop Plug header. I've downloaded and installed KiCad and added Cluso's P2 KiCad library file. I also want to thank Tubular for discussions that we've had about the P2 board he is developing. Thanks, to Cluso and Peter for helping me to get started on this project. I've only designed one PCB before using Eagle. I've never used KiCad before, so I'm learning as I go. I presented this concept before by hijacking other people's threads, so I thought it was time to start a thread specifically on this concept. The goal is to have a board that can plug into a wireless breadboard with the hobbyist in mind. The DIP connector uses 0.1" pin spacing with 1.1" or less between the rows. The board would be similar to the P2 EDGE, but with only 32 I/O pins and a DIP connector instead of an edge connector. I've started playing around with KiCad to see if I can design a 40-Pin DIP P2 board.
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